Tuesday, 16 February 2016

Pest : Sorry, how many horses?

Ah day 2 of our city break. It really was a jam-packed few days and they really do merit individual posts!
We stuck to the Pest side of the river and had a rather easier morning, starting with a trip to the Széchenyi Thermal Baths. In case you weren't aware, thermal baths are outrageously popular in Hungary and there are a number dotted around, each with a different selling point. Széchenyi is (I believe) the biggest. The façade of the once-grandiose building is crumbling and the paint is peeling. The place probably hasn't ever been renovated. If you pay for a cabin, expect it to be small. It's essentially a cupboard. Based on first impressions, I was beginning to think the place was heavily overrated. Outside there are 3 thermal pools, as well as a number of various pools, saunas and steam rooms inside.
You might see some old men playing chess, half immersed in the warm water. You might see old ladies attempting aqua-aerobics around other visitors. You might see a young couple or friends floating around the jacuzzi bubbles. It's a very soothing and very relaxing place and it's easy to see why the Hungarians go on a regular basis.
After freshening up back at the hotel, we continued out day choosing to amble up Váci Utca. This is a pedestrian street full of shops, cafés and tattoo or massage parlours. I'll be frank - it's not worth seeking out for the shopping unless you are particularly interested in touristy tat. For upmarket shopping, you'd be better off near the Opera House. However, we did find a pleasant café, in which to lunch on Hungarian food. The weather remained beautiful, despite being mid-November and this enabled us to eat outside. I noticed lots of places have blankets for outside diners, so it must be encouraged whenever the sun is shining.
Országház
From Váci Utca, we moved across to the river and took the tram up to the Parliament buildings (Országház) If you want a quick fix on sightseeing, without the legwork, definitely take that tram (Number 2 perhaps) for the whole route. You get to see nearly all of the famous landmarks, as long as you get a good window seat!
The Parliament Buildings, as you might expect, are impressive. There are peaks of Christianity in the odd statue of Saints hidden in some of the alcoves. It's quite the work of art. By the time we walked around the outside, the sun was setting, which cast the buildings in a soft glow. There are an awful lot of statues of horses dotted around as well.
Matthias Church in sunset

We mused around in the twilight passing a handful of memorials. The one to the left here peaked my interest, but I have to say, I have no idea what it was for.





From there, we made our way towards St. Stephen's Basilica. We had seen it in passing the night before, but you missed the grandeur in the dark. Entry is free to the basilica, although you can pay to go up to the balcony. Essentially you pay for a panorama. I'm sure it's a great view, but you can get (superior) panoramas for free across the river up the hills. Save your pennies. If you do want to splash out, go to an organ concert and buy a ticket for a memorable event.
I'm a sucker for churches, temples and all religious places of worship. I love the sanctity. Inside the Basilica there is some beautiful artwork. Towards the back, in rooms behind the alter, they keep a relic of St Stephen (Szent Istvan) who was supposedly the first King of Hungary. You can press a button to light up the relic for a few moments in order to see it so as to preserve it from constant light. I'm not fussed about relics. I don't see why that's more of an attraction than the basilica ceiling!
Having completed our sightseeing for the day and dusk falling more rapidy, we sought out a "cat café". They have 10 cats wandering around the café for you to pet, stroke, play with (cats willing). The cats mostly aren't that willing and want to sleep, but you can buy some cat treats, which does attract more attention for the cats!
The cats are all very placid from what I saw, but one to avoid if you have any allergies.

Our final evening was rounded off by exploring the ruin bars dotted around Pest. Our favourite was El Lato, which is run by volunteers and often does goodwill work in the area. They have an "alternative" playlist, just in case European Pop isn't your thing.
For great cocktails, dip into the tiny Pharma bar. You can probably only fit 8-10 people in the bar, but they do make an incredible selection of cocktails

No comments:

Post a Comment